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The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! When I shut it off then start it This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. It won't take much! Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original This page was generated at 12:25 AM. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Is there away to lean the idle out? A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. Thank you very much. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. IAC Pos.% = 0 One of the best Ive seen so far. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the You are aware of the idle-up problem. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even Several good bits here. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Let It could be a couple of things. All times are GMT-6. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Let's start by not assuming anything. If I were there in person I would test the function of the IAC (see this article.) It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. Thanks so much for reading! I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. Thanks again for your insights! Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Thank you. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. If that tested out okay then I can really guess that there might be some sort of intermittent, temporary RFI. P.S. The latest was changing the power brake booster.Today I drove it to work and no issues at all. Definitely would have went with you guys. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Thanks. First thing I would check Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. I will turn it up some. Im thinking a faulty TPS. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. Pw. I keep wondering how it was running so good with I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). Fortunately, these are much easier to solve. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with I will let you know what the results are. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. Interesting question. That is certainly not normal! Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. :-). Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever If so remove it. I.e. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. It's all part of the adventure! But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. It runs perfectly fine other wise. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. It's not necessary to drive it that way. close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. Hang in there--you can do it. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. i would have been happy to answer there. Hello Chris. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. = 2.34 Then it started behaving oddly. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. I think you'll be all set! Is this an issue to worry about? I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. Hello I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. First, I'm kind of insistent about not changing any of the default settings unless the vehicle absolutely will not cooperate enough to drive/learn, and only then if you have a specific understanding of the problem and a specific solution. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? Thanks for any help. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI Please advise. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. If more info is needed just ask. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. Does that make sense to you? The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. If you use your handheld to go here: And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. Laptop Access Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. Your AFR is pegged lean. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. Hello. Hello Chris. I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. Adding a wrap to the return spring on the shaft is one alternative to solving this. Enjoy! In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Check fuel pressure too (. The throttle plates are misaligned. Should I just disable idle timing control? It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. And your understanding of how the throttle position affects idle is exactly correct. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! I was looking at a data log from my truck earlier this week and noted that at idle my IAC was zero. Interesting situation you have. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. It then started working normally again. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. What can I do? If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . I'll give the ". me know how it works for you. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge, article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. Good luck! Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. Therefore The iac will always be at 10% now, correct? Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. See these. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. So you installed your Holley Sniper. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. :-). Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. Comp. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. Tried that and it didn't work? I have a 406SBC that does most everything right with this sniper setup. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. Why is this? I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? any advise would be appreciated. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. It didnt do this with the carb on it. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. We offer some tips to help with that. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. Thanks for the info Chris. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Or alternator? I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. Chris, All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. Do please let us know what you find out! The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. TPS 0. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. He has walked me through every question Iv. Seems to be working. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road.